Colin Horgan graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2017 MA Fashion Womenswear where he closed the show with his celebrated debut collection «Brisk». Now in his 5th season presenting on schedule at London Fashion Week, Colin blends his roots in music and subculture into a refined and masterful NEO-luxury collection. Irish born, Kerry native, Horgan takes inspiration from strength in women in his family and juxtaposes them with surreal women that inspired him through his early youth.
Colin Horgan is worn by artists including Dua Lipa, Lady Gaga, Danielle Galligan, Kehlani, Tolu Makay, Chaelin CL, Brooke Candy, Tierra Whack, LYRA, Ashnikko and Mabel.
Could you tell us a story of your brand?
— My brand was born as a response to create clothing that takes you away from your old self. This idea came from women in my own family in Ireland - my mother, my grandmother and my aunts watching them transform with inner strength when putting on an outfit with presence. I kind of visualised clothes like modes of transport to take you away, even if only for a moment forward. As the collections have evolved, so has my research. I would take photos of garments that were worn, old imagery from family events and then merge them with vehicles, and car interiors. It started to create juxtapose and eventually combine those narratives, which built an aesthetic that exists still very much today. I realised that I was building this character that would continuously evolve and change as the collections do. The collections are now a continuation of the same woman, like an episode from a TV show.
What is your target audience?
— I suppose looking back I was pretty much focused on getting press interest and making noise. The first few collections were really about trying to get noticed, and introduce an audience into my world. I would say now through strategy it is a little different. There are almost two lines that run in the one collection. I would say it is almost a mother/ daughter collection. Half of the collection is more youthful so I address it as the daughter pieces, with the longer and leaner pieces being targeted towards the mother. The price point is also appropriate for both ranges, but also what has been happening over the past few months is that a lot of my direct customers are actually men, so it has definitely expanded my initial target audience.
What materials do you prefer to use for your clothes the most?
— For me, I actually love the difference between outerwear fabrics combined. The tactile nature of the combinations from Grosgrain to lightweight nylon brings a texture element to the clothing. I do think that I am ultimately an outerwear/jacket designer, but I do enjoy exploring bonding techniques to merge two different fabric types together. It gives the shape of the garment a new lease of life, and elevates the feeling of luxury to the item.
Where are your products manufactured?
— I am very proud to say that all my products are produced in the Republic Of Ireland. There aren’t many designers doing this anymore, due to the high cost of producing, but for me I think it makes the garment more special. We prototype, fit and cut in my studio in Kerry which is almost at the edge of the country and then send it to Dublin where a small production joins everything together before we add additional hardware/trim or finishing touches to the pieces. It does take a little longer as we are cutting everything in house, but for me I can oversee the start to finish process more clearly and highlight transparency on it.
What products do you represent?
— Products that I carry, I would say Outerwear makes up 60% of the entire collection. I would often do three coats in a collection and offer them in different colour stories. The rest of the collection is made up of Skirts, Dresses, Trousers, Tops with a few additional abstract showpieces. I design in colour, so for me allocating the fabrics and style items are almost my way of merchandising the range.
Will you expand your assortment in the near future?
— Luckily, there are a few projects that have been developing behind the scenes which I am very excited to drop during the summer, but for now I will have to keep quiet until then.
What products is there the most considerable demand for?
— I know I am starting to sound like a broken record, but I would say Outerwear Jackets and Coats are the most in demand. Currently, and very blessed to say that the Jackets in particular are extremely popular. I think, and from what I get feedback wise it is the versatility and longevity the jackets have. They are built to last. All the seams are bound on the inside and have heavy duty top stitching all over the seams. I am all about details and as you explore each garment externally, there are in some even more details internally in the garment. Over the seasons, I definitely have become product driven, but also building a garment with a higher price point, it does need to finish and precision. I would like to think my pieces do.
Could you list the most expensive and the cheapest product?
— The most expensive sellable piece is currently priced at 1428 EUR, while the most accessible piece starts off at 80EUR. Looking at this difference, initially it is drastically worlds apart, but when you feel the coats in comparison to the more wearable pieces, and the work involved I would like to thank that the customer although is investing is immediately elevated.
How often do you release new collections?
— I would in the past show two seasons a year, but over time, when I’d finish one season, you get the orders for the stores and half start preparing the next collection, then we were cutting the pieces which would take more than month, with no real time to develop a new idea for the next season. For me, I was just chasing numbers, and pulling old shapes out and cutting in new fabric because time was always against me as I chose to cut production in house. I think my strategy this year is very different and I’ve shifted alot of the energy into more positive outputs, instead of panic.
What is the size range of your clothes?
— Currently within the retailers, I offer XS (6UK) S (8UK) M (10UK) and L (12UK), but with Direct-To-Consumer I do offer Custom Measurements on majority of my products. The showpieces though are almost created instinctively so unless the customer can be physically there it is sometimes hard to re-create the sculptural elements digitally.
Are you planning any collaborations in the near future?
— I have a few exciting projects with very well known actresses, singers for music festivals and continuing partnerships that will come to light in September, all going well that is.
What trading platforms, social networks do you use?
— You can find me on colin-horgan.com to shop exclusive pieces from Spring/Summer 2023 or @colinhorgan on Instagram and TikTok.
